Baycusan® Polyurethane Dispersions and Polyurea Powder for color cosmetics

Baycusan® Polyurethane dispersions contain both hydrophilic and hydrophobic segments, which impart a unique combination of water resistance and ease of removal from skin. Baycusan® provides great elasticity, imparting non-transfer resistance properties to decorative cosmetics.



Also, it creates a natural soft feel on skin. Overall, Baycusan® polyurethane film formers display a good balance of properties:

• Outstanding water resistance
• Excellent abrasive resistance
• Good non transfer and long-lasting properties
• Fast drying
• Non-greasy and non-tacky soft afterfeel on skin
• Easy to remove

The Polyurea powder as well offers a lot of opportunities to create modern Make-up formulations:

• Excellent skin feeling. Powdery, velvety finish on skin
• Outstanding pigment spreadability
• Even color coverage
• Enhancement of color expression
• Excellent cohesive strength of product in pressed powder form
  

Baycusan® is suitable for many color cosmetic formulations like foundation, eye shadows, lipstick and mascara.

Baycusan® in mascara formulations
The Baycusan® C 1000 and Baycusan® C 1004 polyurethane dispersions are suitable for mascara formulations. To test and demonstrate how these film-forming raw materials affect the water resistance of mascara formulations, experts at Bayer MaterialScience have developed a method of their own. They first apply black mascara to a piece of cotton fabric and measure the color intensity and weight of the specimen. The fabric is then immersed in a bath of water for 30 minutes, after which the color and weight loss of the fabric is measured to establish how much mascara has been dissolved in the water. One of their findings was that specimens with an otherwise identical oil-in-water formulation but no polyurethane dispersion lost around 22 percent of their color intensity, while those containing Baycusan® C 1004 lost only 8 percent. The specimens with Baycusan® C 1000 lost only 5 percent. These results show that the polyurethane raw materials from Bayer MaterialScience perform much better than conventional, frequently used polymer film formers.

The polyurethane dispersions also give mascara and eyeliners good abrasive resistance, with Baycusan® C 1004 achieving slightly better results in this case than Baycusan® C 1000. Basically, the two dispersions differ primarily in the elasticity of the resultant films.

With mascara based on Baycusan® C 1000, the eyelashes can be shaped into an attractive curved form that retain their shape and style over a long period. Positive subjective assessments by users have been confirmed through a standard test that is frequently used for hairstyling products. This shows that the polyurethane has a particularly good ‘curl retention capacity'.

Polyurea powder in decorative cosmetics impart a particularly pleasant feel to the skin
Baycusan® C 1005 polyurea powder can give decorative cosmetics and skin-care products a whole range of favorable properties. Recent measurements show that it can absorb more oil than other frequently used powders such as acrylate cross-polymers, starch derivatives or conventional polyurethanes. It can therefore be used, for example, to formulate make-up products that effectively reduce the greasiness of the skin. Sensorial tests by the French Dermscan Group, carried out by a panel of trained consumers, also confirm that Baycusan® C 1005 gives a pleasant, velvety-silky feel to the skin. Liquid make-up formulations containing Baycusan® C 1005 are particularly easy to apply and are not tacky. Finally, the polyurea powder makes it easier to apply make-up containing pigments without leaving behind any color blotches. In lipstick formulations the use of Baycusan® C 1005 leads to a significant improvement of the color expression.

Standardized comparisons between pressed powder eyeshadows revealed a further plus for Baycusan® C 1005: it significantly increases the cohesion of the eyeshadow powder with the effect that, even after repeating the drop test ten times, no cracks were observed in the compressed powder.

Read the press release "Polyurethanes for a fantastic look".

Try these formulations and download this booklet:

• Liquid Make-up Foundation
• Loose Face Powder
• Pressed Powder Eyeshadow
• Lip Gloss
• Water-Resistant Oil-In-Water Mascara
• Rub & Water-Resistant Oil-In-Water Mascara
• Liquid Eyeliner
• Extreme Color Lipstick
• Lipstick – Raspberry Delight
• Lipstick – Pearlescent Pink
• Lipstick – Summer Feeling
• Long Wear Water-in-Silicone Foundation
• Long Wear Oil-in-Water Foundation
• Long Wear Water-in-Oil Foundation